Morrungulo
And the tale of a chapa trip
Morrungulo beach
Hello to all our readers. Somehow, July ran away from us, and we didn’t manage even a single newsletter. This is truly deplorable, and we deeply apologize. Currently, we are on our second week in Johannesburg, doing some errands, and it is far colder than Mozambique – we have been wrapped up in jackets, blankets, and hats. So, as we are sitting in the cold city, we have been thinking back on some of the hotter trips we have made and decided to share with you a camping trip to Morrungulo we took last year.
Morrungulo is a beach destination known for fishing and diving, located about two hours south of us. We had first seen the turn off the last time we went to Pomene, a similar place down the coast. I will deviate from the tale for a moment to tell you about how we got to Pomene – this was about three years ago while we were in between cars, and we took a chapa: the local form of transport which is basically a generally decrepit minivan stuffed to the brim with humanity.
On that trip to Pomene, we decided to go early to get a Maxixe bound chapa and hop off at the Pomene turnoff, which is a couple hours away. From there, we had no plan, but were hoping for the best. We packed a duffel bag each, grabbed the two-man tent (our old tent which expired on a camping trip on the Save River), and headed to the bus station in Vilankulo, which is really a collection of chapas with their starting point and destinations listed in sharpie on a piece of cardboard or paper placed in the (often cracked) front windshield. We found a car bound for Maxixe and asked when it was leaving. Typically, the answer was that the chapa would leave once it was “full enough.” We told the driver we would pay him extra if he saved us the front seat to share (this way you don’t end up crushed in a mass of sweaty bodies in the back as they cram more people in) and asked him to call us when the car was ready to leave. Meanwhile, we headed to the market to get a 60 mt egg roll.
On the drive, we pass over the Tropic of Capricorn, marked by this sign.
Sure enough, the guy working at our chapa popped up about half an hour later to tell us we were ready to go, so we jumped in the front (with me perching a little awkwardly in the center of the front two seats) and set off. Taking a chapa is an interesting thing when one is, like me, used to driving and transport in the western world. There is one man who stands by the sliding door of the van, and every time we pass someone on the road who looks like they might want a ride somewhere, he opens the door partway, leans precariously out of the speeding vehicle, and shouts, “Maxixe?!” at the top of his lungs. If the answer is yes, the chapa pulls over, the door is flung wide, and the newcomer is jammed aboard into the usually already-far-past-bursting-point car.
As an aside, my first chapa was so full that the rear door was tied shut with a piece of bailing string and the side door had to be held in place lest it roll open. This does not exactly inspire a feeling of comfort and safety, but it is cheap and quick and that’s why we always ask for the front seats. As well as picking up people every few miles, the chapa also stops periodically for roadside sellers, who race to the car carrying baskets and, once we have barely rolled to a stop, thrust bags of fresh cashews, peanuts, bananas, Frozy soft drinks, home-made wooden cooking implements, or whatever else they are selling through the windows. Usually, something is bought before we roll off again.
There are always an abundance of cashews since the cashew tree grows naturally all along the coast line. That, along with fresh fruit such as mango, banana, and oranges, can be found almost anywhere.
One can also buy things like t-shirts, capalanas, bags, and small statues along the roadside.
These vendors were all happy to have us photograph their wares (and we have their permission to use the photos). I love these roadside photos as they truly show how colorful Mozambique is (quite literally)!
Anyway, back to the main story. This was my first time in Morrungulo, and Jay said it would be better if we could fish or dive, but, because the journey was made in the middle of Covid time, diving centers were closed. So our trip was more of an information-gathering weekend away to prepare for the next time. This was also our second time testing out the new tent, the first being the mountain trip to Chimanimani. With no expectations, we drove into Morrungulo and found a campground (simply called ‘Morrungulo’). We paid a fee to put up our tent and set out to explore the beach.
Our campground - there is a nice covered area for the tent. Apparently, there is usually power here as well, with a light and plugs for your phone. At the time we went, there was none, I believe because they had shut it off due to a lack of visitors during the Covid era.
Our campsite is right on the beach, and all night we listened to the gentle waves rocking onto the white sand. It is a wide and beautiful beach lined with palm trees, perfect for long strolls. We took a little snorkel around, but didn’t go to the big reefs and so saw very little. Next time, we plan to explore the reefs more.
It was very hot on this trip (in March - full summer) so we wallowed to cool down.
After a few hours on the beach, we set out in search of dinner. We found a fisherman selling fresh caught fish, and bought a snapper and a huge crayfish, which we cooked over our bbq at the campsite - we had brought our mini Webber with us.
Simply dressed with garlic and fresh lemon, this was a delicious dinner. We slept well in the near silent camp, and the next day, after a morning swim, headed back to Vilankulo. This is an excellent distance for a weekend trip and even just one night away!
The morning’s instant coffee with an ocean view, and Jay in the foreground, contemplating the sea.
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